Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its essence: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – hidden gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to learn these stories and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
